The first white homesteaders in Jackson Hole arrived in the mid 1880's, and
in 1889 six wagons full of the Mormon Wilson clan traveled from Idaho over Teton
Pass to settle at its foot, founding the little community of Wilson. One of
these settlers was Uncle Nick Wilson, who as a boy spent two years with the
Shoshone as the adoptive brother of Chief Washakie. As an eighteen year old
Wilson was a pony express rider; as a young man he was a stage coach driver and
an army scout. He always wore a hat, even when he was inside, to hide what must
have been a very spectacular scar left by an arrow wound he received during his
Pony Express days.
The town of Jackson was founded in 1901 as a business enterprise of Grace
Miller, a local banker's wife who purchased the land and platted it for
settlement. Although Jackson spent many years as a dusty little cow town before
the tourists discovered it, the region has a long tradition of offering high
quality dude ranch experiences. Jackson Hole’s scenery is spectacular but the
ranching only marginal. As one old rancher supposedly explained, "Dudes winter
better than cattle." The Hole has traditionally provided habitats for a variety
of artists and writers. Writer Donald Hough said if you shot an arrow into the
air in Jackson in the 1940's, it would most likely have come to rest in the back
of someone hunched over a typewriter.
North of Jackson lies Grand Teton National Park, a small park created in the
first half of the 20th century to protect the Hole's beautiful landscapes from
commercial development. It began with some sneaky maneuvering -- J. D.
Rockefeller used the cover of the Snake River Land Company to buy out struggling
ranches in the valley, which infuriated many locals and resulted in decades of
controversy. The end result has undoubtedly been good for the local economy, and
the scenery is truly sublime.
Jackson Hole and Jackson Lake were both named for trapper David E. Jackson,
while the Tetons received their name from French Canadian trappers. During the
fur trade days this was a busy place. Once the trappers were gone, however, the
Hole was isolated and lonely up into the twentieth century. Indians used it as a
summer camping ground, and in the 1860's a lone Englishman named Richard Leigh
settled in the Jackson Hole area with his Shoshone wife Jenny. He scraped out a
living trapping on the western side of the Tetons, and supplemented his income
by working as a guide. He led the Hayden scientific expeditions of 1871 and 1872
through the Teton and Yellowstone regions, bringing Jenny and the children
along. The Hayden expedition named Leigh Lake and Jenny Lake after them. Those
happy summers became nothing but memories the Christmas of 1876, when Leigh
watched helplessly while Jenny and their five children all died of small pox. He
wrote heartbreakingly to a friend about his loss, describing how the first child
died on Christmas Eve at about the time they usually celebrated with a candy
pulling, the second died Christmas night, and the third on the twenty sixth. By
the early morning hours of the twenty eighth, his entire family was gone,
leaving Leigh a broken man. He found the will to continue, however, and
remarried three years later, this time to a sixteen-year-old Bannock girl named
Susan Tadpole. Leigh had assisted at Susan's own birth, and together they had
three children. He took this second family along on guiding jobs, too --
Theodore Roosevelt once gave a rifle to his daughter Emma. Leigh died in 1899
and is buried in the Tetons.