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Bed &
Breakfast Inns and Ranches of Wyoming |
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History of Shell
as told by Gil Smith |
Gil Smith is the
great-grandson of Shell’s first white settlers. His private recollections
describe a tightly knit group of pioneers who, though far from perfect,
still pulled together and took care of their own.
In 1886 the Jordan L. Smith family took up a ranch which includes
present-day Shell. The Smith women raised a garden the first summer
they pulled a halt along Shell Creek while the men were building the cabin
and corrals. The grizzly bear were trapped out of the creek bottoms.
The Smiths were fierce hunters and trappers: sage chicken in season, deer,
elk, bear meat, even beaver, all filled their table. The family also
brought cattle with them, and visitors knew there would always be beef at
the Smiths -- one of their own or a "poached" one from Lovell's huge herd of
free ranging longhorns.
J. L. Smith ran a free hotel. Those were “make-do” days when all the
boys slept together not only in one room, but in one bed. When weary
travelers stopped by in the middle of the night, a blanket or two was pulled
from the boys' bed for use on the straw tick in the lean-to shed or, if
bitter cold, in front of the main room fire place. J. L would vacate
his bed so female guests could sleep with his wife in this one private room
of the house.
Four years after her arrival in the valley, Lavinia Smith died in childbirth
with her ninth child; she was the first Shell pioneer to be buried, so J. L.
gave the community a rock strewn corner of the Smith homestead for a
cemetery. That same year Jordan Jr. died of gangrene poisoning after
breaking his leg.
The Shell valley filled up fast after the Smiths landed there -- the Kershners and Sweeneys on Horse Creek, followed by the Lampmans and
MacKensies, then the Tatlocks, Sabins, Lees, and Millers. In 1890
artist Clayton S. Price came with his family to the area below Shell, where
the family wintered in a one-room cabin. There were no winter
provisions, since the senior Price, who was to bring them down from Billings
by wagon, got snowed in 'til spring in the Montana country. Neighbors
helped as they could with flour and dried fruits, and the boys hunted.
His daughter Ota Price, my grandmother who married Jordan Smith's son Edgar,
said she never got warm again after that winter.
Ten to twenty years after arriving in the valley, nearly all the families
were connected by marriage. Almost every region of the United States
and most all of the European countries were represented. There arose
out of this diversity good-natured debate as well as bitter feuds based in
part on ethnic prejudice. Often a battle over the ever-limited supply
of irrigation water or a neighbor's bull in one's stock would lead to
personal name-calling, and it was common to see grown men fighting with
fists in front of the post office or MacKensie's store. The battles
were bitter and not quickly forgotten; occasionally guns were threatened; in
unusual cases, used. But when the community gathered for a dance or to
watch the school children perform their Christmas play, the men would gather
round the big stove together, truces made. They good-naturedly joked,
told the old stories, and surreptitiously passed the jug.
My grandmother lived along the cemetery road in the last years of her life,
when I was not yet allowed to go to funerals and she was no longer able.
Together we watched the hearse move slowly by and she would say we must stay
inside until everyone in the procession had passed. Then, while she
made me molasses cookies or her sour-cream raisin pie, or some other
wonderful recipe which she knew by heart, she would tell me all the
wonderful collection of memories surrounding the person being buried.
Most of them were her friends, but she shed few tears. Her faith was
strong and her experience with loss had taught her that our lives are, as
Scripture observes, impermanent as a mist.
The old ones are nearly gone now. The little white church, its unkempt
land left to the community by my great-grandfather, stands mostly unused
except for an occasional wedding or funeral. The two-room red school
house in which every child in or near Shell received their elementary
education only 15 years ago has fallen silent. My family's grizzly
bear trap can now be set by hand, its metal weakened in a bunkhouse fire in
the forties. Once, this region provided a living for at least fifty
large families and possibly more -- especially during hard times. Now
there are fewer children in the valley, although old (and new) ranching
families still keep the community traditions alive. |
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